If your roof is slanted, inspect areas that are higher than where you’ve found interior evidence of a leak. Water enters the leak then, due to gravity, it gets into the attic at a point farther down the roof’s pitch. If you have trouble, run a hose for 1 to 2 minutes along different sections of the roof. Have a person inside alert you when they spot water.
Repairing 1 or 2 shingles and resealing minor gaps are relatively easy fixes. However, patches of failing shingles and widespread wear are signs that your roof needs to be replaced, especially if it’s over 20 years old. Additionally, if you find widespread rot or mold on your roof boards or trusses inside your attic, you might have structural issues that require a professional roofer.
Shingles are pliable in warm temperatures. Since they’re brittle in colder weather, you might need to soften a curled shingle with a blow dryer. Don’t use a heat torch or any heat source more intense than a blow dryer, or you’ll damage the shingle. [5] X Research source
To disguise your repair, look around the roof and in the gutter for accumulations of asphalt granules. Collect a small amount, then sprinkle them in the sealant to match its color to your shingles.
If necessary, use a blow dryer to make the surrounding shingles more pliable. After removing the old shingle, use a sharp utility knife to round the back corners of the new shingle; this makes it easier to install. Slide the new shingle into place, gently lift the shingle above, and drive 1 1⁄4 inch (3. 2 cm) galvanized roofing nails into the new shingle’s corners. Now replace the nails that you removed from the shingle above. Finally, use a trowel to apply roof cement over the nail heads and edges of the new shingle.
You can mend a small gap at a joint, vent, or chimney with roofing sealant. Any gaps wider than 1⁄4 in (0. 64 cm), open splits, or blistered areas will need to be patched. Like shingle repairs, mending minor damage to asphalt or rubber roll roofing is relatively easy. However, if you notice widespread wear, water stains, mold, or rot on the roof or ceiling, call a professional.
If the blister contained water, soak it up with a dry rag. After thoroughly mopping up water, allow it to dry for 12 to 24 hours. If you’re in a rush, dry it out with a blow dryer; just be sure it’s completely dry before you attempt repairs. Blisters often occur with leaks in roll roofing. If there’s no blister associated with your leak, skip this step and proceed to mending the tear.
After cementing the edges of the tear, press it down flat, then drive galvanized roofing nails along each side of mend in 3 in (7. 6 cm) intervals. If the fiberboard substrate is unsound, you’ll need to replace the damaged section.
Check for and remove any metal washers and screws that secure the roof substrate to the structure beneath it. Using the section you removed as a template, cut a new piece of substrate from a sheet of high-density fiberboard, which you can purchase at your local hardware store. Set the new substrate into place, then secure it with 1 1⁄2 in (3. 8 cm) roofing screws with built-in hex washers.
If you did replace the substrate, add layers of rubber roll roofing until the area is flush with the surrounding roofing material. Cut a piece of tar paper or rubber roll roofing 12 in (30 cm) wider and longer than the repair area, apply a generous layer of cement, then set the patch over the cement-covered mend. [13] X Research source After setting the patch in place, press it lightly and drive roofing nails around its perimeter. Ensure the nails that secure the patch don’t overlap with any hardware you’ve used to hold the fiberboard substrate in place.
If your roll roofing is asphalt, spread a layer of asphalt gravel over the cement while it’s still wet. This will help protect the roofing material.
Shakes are basically shingles made out of wood instead of asphalt. If you have slate shingles, you’ll need to split them and saw off the nails as you would a wooden shake. Remember that replacing a shingle or shake here and there is relatively simple, but widespread wear and tear calls for a professional.
After splitting the damaged shake, remove the pieces with a set of pliers.
Be careful when using a hacksaw or any other sharp tools. If you’re not confident in your ability to wield saws, hammers, or other tools on a pitched surface, call in a professional.
Trim the new shake about 3⁄8 in (0. 95 cm) less than the gap’s width so it’ll have room to expand.
Next, place a wood block against the new shake, and strike the block with a hammer to tap the shake into place. As the shake slides the last 1 in (2. 5 cm) into place, it’ll pull the nail heads beneath the shake above it. If you’re unable to use this technique to secure the nails inconspicuously, just drive the nails in directly below the shake above the replacement.
If your shakes or shingles are bonded by sealant and you broke the seal when you removed the old piece, apply a bead of roof sealant or cement around the edges of the replacement shake.
Small gaps can be treated with caulk or roof sealant, but larger cracks or tears require patching or new flashing.
Gaps larger than 1⁄4 in (0. 64 cm) will require a more substantial fix instead of a simple sealant. [24] X Research source
If a small area of flashing is rusted, slide a new piece of galvanized steel flashing beneath the failing area, then seal it with roofing cement. [26] X Research source If you’re any shingles adjacent to flashing are loose, avoid nailing the shingles on the side that makes contact with the flashing. Instead, bond the shingles to the flashing using roof cement to avoid puncturing the flashing. [27] X Research source
Apply strips of ice-and-water barrier to the joint before installing the flashing. For a chimney or other object protruding from the roof, apply strips 4 in (10 cm) up the object’s height. Wrap the flashing around the joint and seal it with roofing cement or caulk. If there are nail holes on the flashing’s edge, drive galvanized roofing nails into them. If you have a shingled roof, you might have needed to remove shingles in order to access the old flashing. Replace them, if necessary, and secure them to the flashing with roofing cement. Properly replacing all of the flashing around a chimney is complex and may require custom-made materials. If necessary, consult a professional.
